Michigan

Michigan was great. In October of 2024 I packed up the bike, hopped a flight to Detroit, and rode to Lapeer. I didn’t get to stay as long as I would have liked, but I really enjoyed the journey.

I stayed the first night at a hotel near the airport. Not the nicest room, but the staff stole my heart. They were friendly and helpful. The door lock on my room broke and I had to keep asking them to open it manually every time I popped out for snacks. I was surprisingly hungry that first night.

The next morning I was up before the sun and on my way. I basically ran a straight line North out of Detroit toward my next destination, a Red Roof Inn in Orion/Auburn Hills. That was 40 miles of testing my mettle. By the end of that leg I was completely ready to see a hotel.

I told myself I was going to stop at the first non-corporate breakfast joint I saw and have some flap jacks. Well, that was the first one I saw. A little on the nose, don’t you think? You can see they let me park my bike in the vestibule as there was no rack to which I could lock it. They were nice people. The food was fantastic.

Around Garden City I spotted some geese just chilling on the lawn of a high school. I took the picture from a distance so as not to spook them. When I rode past I learned that these geese did not give a ****. That’s no big deal but when you’re used to the desert, geese are a novelty.

I had told myself that since my breakfast stop was so on point, I would stop at an Irish Pub for lunch. Just to see if it would happen. As I was crossing the Eight Mile Road going North, I resisted the urge to rap battle anyone, but sure enough, it was right there.

It turned out to be more of a sports bar. TV screens everywhere. They had kind of a surly staff. That’s where I learned Detroit fiercely loves their Lions. There’s nothing wrong with that, but it’s not a classic Paddy Trap by any means. They have great food. The patty melt was perfect. They wouldn’t let me bring my bike inside, but once I got inside I could see why. It would have been in everyone’s way and there was no way around that.

Once I finally got out of Detroit, that’s when it got epic. It was so beautiful. They have some very well maintained trail systems for bikers/joggers/walkers in Michigan. I rode at my leisurely pace and just soaked it in.

Pontiac was something to see. I wish I meant that as a complement. They have really let that place go. I was frightened the whole time I was passing through. I didn’t take any pictures as there was nothing flattering to show.

Right around sundown I was hot, tired, and had seen about enough urban sprawl. That is when I arrived at my next stop, the Red Roof Inn in Orion/Auburn Hills. They have a super nice staff and they mercifully gave me a room that required no stairs to access. I had a hot bath, and some very expensive French fries from the pizza place next door. They don’t do by the slice. How unfortunate.

The next morning I was up before the sun again. I consumed a freeze dried breakfast meal from my supplies and got moving at first light. I saw some beautiful scenery. Onward I pressed. I had met a nice man waiting for the flight that works at a bike shop in Oxford. I would have been happy to pop in and say hi, but they’re closed on Mondays. Bad timing.

When you’re used to the desert a sight like that is breathtaking. It’s probably not much if you’re used to seeing it but to me… wow.

Continuing North, I discovered that Michigan has extremely well maintained trail systems. Until I discovered one that wasn’t, but that comes later.

Really. They even have replicas of Van Gogh paintings along their trails.

As I rode, free of urban sprawl, I saw such amazing nature. I was deeply moved.

Right about lunch time, I had arrived in the quaint town of Metamora. It’s truly a sight to behold. I can’t recommend it enough. It’s the only place I’d found in Michigan thus far that had a rack to lock my bike. Here I stopped for a ham croissant sandwich and called a friend that lives in Michigan. She picked me up and we were off to Imlay City.

The three days I spent with my friend in Imlay City were, I think, some of the happiest I’ll ever experience. We laughed, we dined, we fed a stray cat in the parking lot of the hotel, and she just made my heart joyful. We visited Lake Huron and attempted to skip rocks. That was the first time I ever stood on the beach of a great lake.

All good times come to an end, and I’ll be forever grateful for having them. Eventually it was time to move forward. Google maps sent me up an unmaintained trail from Imlay City. When your bike weighs 30 pounds, and your gear weighs 35, a tree downed across the trail is not the most welcome turn of events. I got over it. Literally.

I saw some more amazing country as I headed North.

After many a hill-laden mile I had arrived. Lapeer State Game Area. It’s legal to dispersed camp for 21 days on state land in Michigan in the off-season. This was to be my home for the next week.

Exactly one mile from my campsite was this gem of the North lands. A lifeline for the supplies I hadn’t brought with me. The owner/operator is such a nice person. We discussed my trip several times. We both used to say “God has a plan”. One day I popped in for a sandwich. Two hunters had gotten there just before me and bought the last two. So I grabbed a can of Vienna Sausages. Explaining the situation to her, she ran right around the counter and made me a fresh sandwich. On my way out she said again “God has a plan”. To which I replied “I guess today He planned for me to have a sandwich”. We both got a good laugh out of that.

Integral to the bikepacker’s journey is camping. I found a lovely little spot next to a field that was being seeded by a dear man named Don. A very nice fellow he was. I picked up the trash I saw strewn about and was ready to settle in.

Coffin/Bivvy tents aren’t strictly the most comfortable, but they do keep you from the elements and they don’t weigh a ton. All my pannier bags fit along the left side inside the tent, and there was plenty of room for the sleeping bag. A cozy stay.

So there I was. Camped out, well supplied, and enjoying the adventure. The jar of muscle ointment was nice to have, and that can of bear mace was reassuring.

I stayed for as long as I could. I attended a local church on Sunday and Wednesday. They were nice people. I talked to the locals, and enjoyed the sights. All in all, a really great trip.